<![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car - Consumerist Comments]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car - Consumerist Comments]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> .....My grandfather had a 1960s Corvair. (Not sure which year.) The frame on it rusted out, and snapped in two when someone in a Cadilac rear-ended him. The car literally broke in half. Both passengers got banged up badly by the metal dashboard, too.

AcidReign

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> Actually Rustoleum does self-etch, if you read the thread thats the specific reason they said to use it, because of its self etching properties with metal (which is Rustoleums whole point, its made to paint metal)

If properly done, that paint shouldnt chip off unless you go out of your way to, its pretty much the same stuff they used to use on cars back in the day anyway, 2 part paints are relitivly new. Its just the aplication prosses is different and part of the reason why is its much easier to lay on a flat coat with a gun, than to go through all the work it takes doing it with a brush (and a lot less time, hours instead of weeks in this case)

But by throwing on more clear, it will certainly protect the finish from the minor scratches that will happen.

Falconfire

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> yes, that is a covair.

spin_sycle

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> ---If it was clear coated though I bet you it will hold up much better long term.---

Depends on how it's clear coated. Most automotive paints now use a two part urethane consisting of a hardener. The problem with most one part processes is that they never harden enough. If he were to throw on several coats of Rustoleum clear, it really wouldn't provide much more protection than he already gets. Also, most high end automotive paints are self etching and actually bite into the surface underneath (self etching primers, etc). The Rustoleum doesn't do that. It's really just laying on top of the previous layer vs. melting/bonding with the previous layer.

mfergel

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> Looks like the site I was mentioning is actually linked in the site referenced in the article.

mfergel

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> I love that so many of you knew this was a Corvair (talk about a consumer's nightmare). It was my brother's favorite car; he owned quite a few. I hated driving in them and NEVER hung my arm out. Anyway, Earl Scheib used to do paint jobs like this!

kicka

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> If it was clear coated though I bet you it will hold up much better long term.

Falconfire

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> This whole process was actually started by a guy from one of the forums I used to visit. He did it on an old Charger. Looked fantastic. However, long term, it just isn't going to hold up. Several others had tried it as well. They experienced issues of sever chipping, etc. from bugs and gravel. Short term....yes.....long term.....I wouldn't recommend it.

mfergel

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> The paint looks amazing, especially since it's not clear-coated. He did a great job sanding out the orange peel. I wonder how well it'll stand up to oxidation and I wonder how well it'll stay stuck to the primer.

Greg P

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> the only amazing thing here is that the car is not a camaro, but if you think it is, i have a great 1993 nissan 300zx (really it's not a sentra) for sale.

drzombie

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> Way better than I could ever do.

Musician78

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> Definitely a Corvair.

$50 in paint and rollers plus the buffer, sander, and several days of your life. Still a bloody impressive result.

Pelagius

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> Unsafe at any speed...

YaleBloor

]]> <![CDATA[Ghetto Paint Your Car]]> I am thinking that the car is not a Camero but a Corvair.... could be wrong though.

Musician78

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